Looking over this recipe from the archives, I could see a couple points of hope. The challenge, then, was tweaking a cheesy recipe to fit with a red. Perhaps it’s the start of fall, with its crisp days and lengthening nights, but what I pictured was a cozy scene of bubbling, just-out-of-the-oven mac and cheese with a glass of red wine. The only problem: What I really wanted was a red wine. Or maybe a sparkling white that could cut through the richness of the dish would do the trick?
So, when I was brainstorming for a macaroni-and-cheese night, I first thought of picking a white-possibly something that would work well with fondue, such as a Chenin Blanc or an off-dry Riesling. When in doubt, the conventional wisdom now goes, the safe choice is definitely white. Whites, with their acidity and low tannins, can tackle a range of cheeses, from fresh to stinky to soft and gooey, whereas the tannins in red wine tend to trip things up. One of the fresh new rules of wine pairing seems to be “white with cheese.” At least two studies back this up, and the idea does make sense, as editor at large Harvey Steiman explains in this blog post. That's the philosophy behind our "8 & $20" feature. Add in a good bottle of wine for less than $20, and you've got a weeknight feast for family or friends. That's all it takes to make an entire meal from scratch.
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